Question 2 - There should be a wire (#10 awg) from the diesel fill fitting on the deck to the metal plate on the tank. The 12V negative from the panel, the ground wires from the 110V connection fittings, the wire to the fuel tank plate, plus others. There will be a number of wires ending at that terminal board. Question 1 - Yes, the engine block needs to be grounded to that terminal strip with the squiggly wire. I guess I need to get someone with expertise to look at all of this for me but some of the wiring has been changed, moved or disconnected with all of the equipment that used to be on this boat over the years before me. Question 4: in reading this thread, is the negative post of the battery is to connect to this buss? I have two batteries, do both need to connect. ![]() I think that shore power connection is for the Air Conditioning. Is that right.? Would DC and AC use the same ground buss bar. On one of them, It appears that I have the neutral and the ground wire from the AC connection on the stern of the boat where you plug in from shore power. I have two shore power connections on the coaming of the boat. Question 3: Back to the ground buss in the engine room. This question I think is more of a "bonding" issue rather than grounding and if so, would that connect to anything on the motor? Is that necessary? It is no longer connected. I think that was once connected to the fuel fill fitting under the deck. Question 2: The same kind of wired was also attached to the metal plate on the fuel tank. Am I right? It was not a heavy gauge wire so I replaced it with a heaver gauge and attached it to the bolt that bolts the transmission to the engine. So I think this wire was connected to the engine. I had a strange wire that was curled in loops but was not connected to anything at this location. Question 1: In the engine compartment, there is a buss mentioned in this thread. ![]() I hate to raise the subject but I need help on making sure I have the DC grounded before I splash. ![]() They are offset so the bolts do not touch the opposite side of the coupling. The Drivesaver comes with the bolts need to do the install. In that case, to combat the stray electrons, the boat will need zincs or maybe a galvanic isolator, depending on how severe the leakage from the dock is. If a boat lives on a dock with a shore power system then the electrolysis comes from a different source and not the boat itself. Without the Drivesaver the electrolysis would have required zincs and would have resulted in heavy barnacle growth on the prop. In 29 years that we have owned Dana, we have replaced the prop once. Our boat lives on a mooring, rarely ties up at a dock, has a Drivesaver and does not use or need zincs on the shaft. The electrical connection via the water in the engine is tiny compared to a direct metal to metal contact provided by the shaft and prop. Sea water is a better conductor than fresh water. Water is not a good conductor of electricity.
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